Chinggis Khan always say....

The train steamed into Ulan Bataar in the morn. Set against dark hills where pregnant storm clouds loomed ominously on the hilltops, ready to roll down into the city any moment. Stacks and chimneys spouted gray serpents of smoke that mingled with the dark clouds and a layer of sand covered the city. It seemed almost like a scene out of a Dickensian novel. The sun, obscured by this sinister mix peeked through the gaps of clear sky, shining distinct rays into parts of the city, as if hope lay only behind those clouds. The landscape, dotted by Gers, exposed pipes, trash and industrial remnants of the Soviet era wasn't exactly the most pleasant of sights from the train, but I was glad to be here, glad to be out of Russia. The last month in Russia had taken its toll on our wallets and on our spirits and we were dying for a change.

I shan't go into detail about our little desert trip, Mr Chew has already done that. I very much appreciated the trip despite the discomforts in the desert. The fact that we were essentially thrown to the mercy of the nomad family with no guide or support from the tour agency was excellent as we really got to experience life with the nomads and become involved with their family for a day without a minivan taking us around, without proper toilets, without a translator, without cold water to drink. I noticed the other tourist camps around where we stayed with gers all lined up in neat rows and very modern looking buildings - I was glad I wasn't there. Perhaps the crowning moment was when we headed off after seeing the sand dunes. We had time so our guide brought us to the lake we were at the 1st day. Along the way, we met up with Panchalan, the herder we stayed with the day before, then it was off to the river bank for vodka together with other herders who came to join us. This was followed by some Mongolian wrestling where we faired miserably. It was the spontaneity which I found most appealing, the fact that this probably wouldn't have happened if we had gone with an organized tour together with a whole bunch of other tourist. So if you're in Mongolia the next time, look up Ger-to-Ger.

-Andrew