Kazan

Kazan is a very old city, having just celebrated its 1000th (one thousandth!) anniversary a few years ago. Sections of the city had been renovated for the anniversary celebrations, but there are still areas that consist of very old buildings, some having fallen into disuse and disrepair. We saw a grand old hotel that was built a hundred years ago left roofless and filled with rubble. Kazan is full of shiny new modern buildings but many old buildings lie is various states of repair. Kazan is a city which has a long history of Christians and Muslims living together is harmony.

We stepped off the train into the morning air of Kazan and were greeted right on the train platform by our host here, Asya.

Asya had been on a Rotary Club exchange program to Georgia, USA, and spoke excellent English. We started walking in search of a cafe to have a drink. Unfortunately, it was still quite early, about 6am, so we couldn't find any place that was open yet. We walked along a pedestrian mall and found ourselves at the only place open that early in the morning : McDonalds! We paid the high Mcdonalds price for coffee and a Sausage McMuffin for myself and sat down for a little rest. We watched a group of rather happy looking partygoers finishing up their evening and a few homeless people washing up in the fountains along the mall.

Further down, we saw a dark brown freestanding bell tower towering above the modern buildings, looking a bit out of place along the walls. We moved on and walked past the Kazan University, where Asya studied. Kazan University consisted of several buildings around the city in an normal example of a city campus.

We visited the Peter and Paul cathedral which was raised well above ground and gave us a good view of the surrounding city and river. Finally, we visited the Kremlin. The kremlin was not too interesting except for the recently built mosque. This mosque was built in the kremlin to replace the one that was reputed to exist there before, but not as a reconstruction. A design contest was held and the winning design was built. So, towering above any building in the Kremlin and the kremlin walls themselves, this four-spired mosque shines with green gilding and stained glass. The design reminded me of the mosques back home. The interior was equally impressive, with a model of the mosque proudly displayed in the centre of the reception hall, rotating in the spotlights. A "balcony for tourists" provides a view of the prayer hall, sparsely but expensively decorated with treated wood and tiles. Asya told me that the mosques in Kazan do sound the call to prayer. Unfortunately, I didn't hear that familiar sound in my time here.

After visiting the kremlin, Asya left us to head to work and we were left to our own devices. We headed back to the train station to figure out our next leg, where I spend a good bit of time poking the touchscreen trip computer, figuring out what the buttons do. We then visited the central market, which was very much like other markets, selling meats, dairy and fresh produce, as well as clothing on the upper floors.

For lunch, we headed to a restaurant/cafeteria that was recommended by Asya. We had hearty fare like trigolnuk (triangle pastries stuffed with meat and potatoes) and mashed potatoes with meatballs. We also tried a famous dessert dish that both Darya and Asya had recommended : cak cak, also called honey worms. To our great surprise, they were exactly the same as the very common sweet dessert back home. It was sweet, golden, crunchy and sticky. I used to buy 30 sen square packets of the stuff when I was in primary school and rapidly consume it when it appears at home. Supposedly of Uzbek origin, it appears that cak cak has spread further than expected ; who knows where it originated from? =D Despite the slight dissapointment that it wasn't an exotic food, I enjoyed it, reminding me of home.

We spent some time at a internet cafe in a university building nearby after wandering across the city in search for one. Entering educational facitilies always makes me happy. =) We headed back to the market to get some supplies for our next trip before heading to Asya's flat for much needed showers and rest. We arrived before anyone was home and waited outside with the mosquitoes. I was looking at a one-eyed black dog that looked a little like an oversized terrier sitting at the entrance to the apartment, looking just like a faithful guard dog. Soon, Asya and her husband returned. We washed up and retired with the two naughty cats.

Early the next day, we headed to the train station, got more supplies and embarked on our longest journey yet : 30 hours to Omsk, a two hour stop and then another 14 hours to Tomsk.

Next (real) Stop : Tomsk!

-ky